Tiring. Focal length: 135mm Maximum aperture: f/2.0 Lens construction: 10 elements in 8 groups Angle of view: 18 degrees Closest focusing distance: 3 feet Focus adjustment: Rear focusing system with USM Mount: Canon Filter size: 72mm Dimensions: 3.2 inches in diameter and 4.4 inches long Weight: 1.7 pounds Warranty: 1 year See more On FF I use this lens for both tight portraits and landscape shots. When you shoot a 135mm F2 lens at F2, your subject will stand out in this beautiful way, often without much work needed from you as the photographer. Neutral yet very nice colours. With an effective focal length of roughly 216mm when coupled with a Canon crop sensor body, the field of view is nearly identical to the one youd find on a full-frame camera with a 200mm telephoto lens. It really is about talent, creativity, and vision, not gear. I would! For that I would investigate alternatives just to make sure. Just place your subject against a distant background, and half of the job is done. Stuff I used to take the photos. Sigma 105/2.8 DG EX Macro (very sharp at infinity) You can go lower, but you have to watch your technique. The interest of a f/1.4 is to be able to be perfect at f/2.8, while a f/1.8 or f/2 might need to be on f/4 to have the same sharpeness and overall IQ.They are not meant to be used wide open, except in rare moments. Just not useful if you already have traditional focal lengths. The Samyang 135mm f/2 lens is very wide in astrophotography terms. Rokinon lenses are made in Korea, and so is the Samyang variation. If you have a more appropriate portrait lens like an 85, 90 or 100, the 135 does not bring you very much. He's better than I am on BS, I got to give him that. 135mm f2 vs 200 f2.8 primes? - Beginning Deep Sky Imaging - Cloudy Nights Must have if you're serious about portraits. SharpStar Askar ACL200 200-mm f/4 astrographic telephoto lens, Astrotrac 360 tracking platform first impression, FIELD TEST: CARL ZEISS APOCHROMATIC & SHARPEST (CZAS) BINOVIEWER, Deus_Ex_Mamiya and Michael Covington like this. thanks for the write-up.. i just got this lens and have just been trying it out. It seems they are now quite comparable in quality to prime lenses. But I hardly used it in the 30+ years. Photography is art and technology, the latter serving the first.Photography is not something arty with a lot of gadgetry. The Canon is about as sharp as the Samyang, but it has some very slight chromatic aberration. A lot of us have been saying this for years. Were those taken with the Canon telephotos you spoke of, and the full spectrum modified camera and the clip in filter? Still - a great portrait lens when used at f/2.8 or f/4, with a creamy bokeh indeed. Over the years, Ive shot deep-sky targets at varying focal lengths from 50mm to over 1000mm. Also Nikon DC 135mm f/2 is a great lens, a little better than 135mm Canon If you want the best possible image quality, and you must have autofocus, and you don't care if it is a bit heavy (maybe you need it for studio use), buy the Sigma. I shoot it wide open 90% of the time. Barney and Chris have been shooting the new Sony 50mm F1.4 GM, and we have a bunch of full resolution samples for you to peruse. Prime means that this lens is fixed at 135mm, it is not a zoom lens that allows for focal length adjustments. Tack sharp even at wide open aperture. CAs: a little in the OOF area - not disturbing anyway. This free website's biggest source of support is when you use these links, especially these directly to it at Adorama or at Amazon, when you get anything, regardless of the country in which you live. Literally it means "blur" so you could just as well use the dictionary definition below the top match from Google search: Bokeh - the visual quality of the out-of-focus areas of a photographic image, especially as rendered by a particular lens. Yep the speed wars in the 70's that gave us all these bokeh monsters were all about the fact that its hard to get usable images in poor lighting when your film was stuck at iso 80 (or even 400 when you were pushing it). Of my last 3500 shots only 62 were made with the 135 f/2. An update to the Mini 11, the new camera adds parallax correction capabilities, automatic flash control and a multi-function twist lens. With this lens you don't need to do much if any post processing. Images that sing. Thanks for the fine article and the thought you put into it. My only complaint about this lens is that the depth of the lens shade forces me to remove the shade in order to remove or replace the lens cap (my hands are fairly large). The Canon 135mm f/2 is no less impressive on a full-frame camera. And it's not the one problem from my L lenses very sad =(, My favourite lens, hands down. Often need f2.2 to f2.8 to gain sufficient DOF for human subjects. Exposure uniformity (vignetting) is also really excellent, reaching a maximum of 1/4 EV (on a camera with an APS-C size sensor) at f/2, and dropping to well under 1/10 EV at f/2.8 and above. The shallow depth of field present at its maximum aperture does indeed create a pleasing bokeh. It is the lens I use as a reference point to compare all new lens acquisitions to after purchase to determine if they need to be returned for repair or replacement. Seems like a great lens. Some people may disagree with the vignetting being a good thing or not, but thats a matter of taste I guess. When i just judge by the indicator line as i click through, it seems like its 19 that gets skipped wondering if there is anything more definite? Now we have to read this kind of ignorant misinformation on DPR articles. I would like to make this work with the Nikkor 180mm ED (i.e., what I have versus what I cannot havelol). I have heard others mention that this lens has a plasticky build quality, but I believe this aspect has been improved. In the highest contrast situations there's a hint of both purple and green fringing but both are minor and easy to remove with software. Amazing sharpness wide open at F2.0 and the focus ring is nice and firm not tight you don't really need to tape it down for astrophotography. Perhaps you have seen the photos of masterful Russian portrait photographers such as Elena Shumilova or Anka Zhuravleva. Well saturated but neutral. The Rokinon website lists this lens as being useful for portraiture photography, and most telephoto applications. At under 900USD, it's a steal. I think youll find that this lens is behind some of the most amazing wide-field astrophotography images online! These are affordably available on eBay, and result in perfectly round star images, the way nature intended them to be. (purchased for $899), reviewed March 19th, 2012 When stopped down to 37mm, at F5.4, it also produces perfect, small and round star images across the entire field. Nothing else like it and the reason the two DC lenses have remained in production since they were introduced in 1993. https://www.dpreview.com/galleries/1180017085/photos/3721717/bokeh. The lens shows a very slight pincushion distortion, but it's well under 0.1% of frame height, an excellent performance by any measure. This makes me feel I shall take the Zeiss 85F1.8 off my A6000 or maybe NOT, it's just another hype article about "A" lens. it is crisp, fast, and awsome. And only the cat photo has something OK (but it is a cat shot You easily get them look good). The Precious - sharp images, fast focus, perfect weight, reference-quality build. Best lenses for astrophotography: 50, 85 and 135mm - DSLR, Mirrorless I have compared many times my 135/2 against my 100/2.8 and there is a big difference. Released only weeks apart, the Sony 50mm F1.4 GM and Sigma F1.4 DG DN Art are clear competitors. This lens has a long focus adjustment ring, with great tension. This is the EF-M series version. There's just nothing there. It improves slightly stopped down. He loves photography, and runs a YouTube channel with tutorials, lens reviews and photography inspiration. These lenses can be had on eBay in mint condition for around $70, and are probably the most price efficient optical instrument in the world. (And cost less too). @juksu - you're such a hypocrite. That's a cheap, fun date for AP. f2, very sharp, virtually without CAs, contrast, colour, lightwight, buildings. . Over the years, I have tried more than two dozen telephoto lenses, until I finally found three or four perfect solutions. You're right, but a headshot is exactly where I want to see all those megapixels I bought put to use! Micael Widell is a photography enthusiast based in Stockholm, Sweden. Crazy fast AF! I bought a Fotasy Minolta MD->EOSM adapter off ebay for $11, and then for about $20 each on craigs list really sharp, well built Minolta MC 28mm f2.8, 50mm f1.4, and 135mm f2.8 lenses that turned out to be great for astrophotography. AF ring feels loose compared to my other L lenses. Sharpness, contrast and the natural vignetting on full-frame cameras is awesome! Canon 60Da DSLR and Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 L2 lens at 135mm, f/3.2. Probably you could get a very similar image with a 85mm 1.8. The logic of this article can be applied to a 200/2.8 as well. Nice image, andysea. If I got this lens, would it make more sense long term to get the Canon mount with a E mount adaptor so I could fit it more easily to a dedicated astro camera later? Any experience with this camera and would this lens be a good fit? Same thing as people mistake "shallow DOF" to blurry background. The diameter of the lens is 77mm, with a non-rotating filter mount on the objective lens. But do some experimenting before you decide. This lens flares easily and the flare can be especially ugly if a sun or flash are in the frame. Fantastic IQ & Bokeh. It would seem to be a better use of a camera to first look for a suitable background, and then and only then to use bokeh. It turns out that this. The spec sheet for the Rokinon 135mm F/2 boasts a number of qualities, with the ones listed below being the most important when it comes to night photography and astro. FULL FRAME TELEPHOTO 135mm F2.0 So, for Joe User or especially for Jane Client, one really has to look closely to see much of a difference. Preaching to the choir! But you couldn't have because you don't know even as much as this guy. The Japanese word "bokeh" can be translated into English as "blur". Yes the Samyang is good and yes there are lenses with bad bokeh. Perhaps I missed it, but did you use a clip-in light pollution filter with your 60D and this lens? If you can tolerate vignetting, there are many normal 35mm lenses that are great wide open. To achieve creamy bokeh, a lens should have a wide maximum aperture and a long focal length. CP+ 2023: Sigma has announced it is bringing its trio of DC DN APS-C prime lenses to Nikon's Z mount: its first lenses for Nikon's mirrorless system. F2 allows higher shutter speeds in lower light without raising the ISO. Or is there a use case for fitting the Samyang 135mm to a Panasonic gx85 (or Panasonic gh5) ?? Here's what I see from the photographs:#1: Woman in traffic. I got this lens because of portraiture. The CA is pretty low wide open and it rivals my 200mm L lens. If you must have autofocus, and care about weight, buy the Canon. in the rain. Show some humility and don't troll. A single, 90-second exposure using the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC at F/4. So whats so great about shooting at 135mm anyway? I've owned a few L lenses and while their USM motors have always been quick to snap in focus, this 135mm is on a different level. (purchased for $900), reviewed December 4th, 2006 For some reason Samyang makes lenses nobody is asking for. I heard it's very sharp and well corrected. What's it got and what's it like to use? Although typically unused in astrophotography, I did get a chance to see the beautiful bokeh this lens creates when shooting at F/2. It's not a bad lens, probably a great one, even if it doesn't seems really as sharp as a basic 85mm f/1.8 (used at f/2.8) , but it's a bad idea to work wide open if you don't need to. However, stepping outside to polar align a small star tracker and attach a DSLR and lens is quick and painless. Diffraction from the cheap EF-s kit zoom lens was uneven. Canon CR-N700 4K PTZ Camera with 15x Zoom. The 135mm f2.8 in particular can take amazing photos of the brighter deep sky objects with about 1 second time . Well, if you consider downloading a lens image from https://www.bhphotovideo.com, and photoshop it on top of my photos to cover mistakes, and demonstrate sharpness of a lens with a jpeg that is way oversharpened; if you call knowledge that "the long focal length compresses the background" , If you call blurr a bokeh just because it sounds better, and so on 1000 words would not be enough to point out what a mess this review is Then you are right, I absolutely do not know as much as he does. Does the bright star reflection bother you? As you can see, the magnification of the lens used will dictate the type of projects you shoot. We were very impressed with X-T5's 40-megapixel APS-C sensor, check out some full resolution images! The foolproof image seems to be more a case of how a bright fuzzy cluttered moving background can completely detach from the offset dark subject matter and overwhelm it. I've seen several listed but here are more to consider. Particular properties of modern 135/2 lenses are resolution with e.g. Hey Trevor, great article! It is good to know that the 200/4 SMC Takumar is good. It's sharp, has very low aberrations, no real distortion and the bokeh is very nice. When i check a F stop chart, i see 15 stops if i count the main, and the secondary ones: 2, 2.4, 2.8, 3.3, 4, 4.8, 5.6, 6.7, 8, 9.5, 11, 13, 16, 19, 22. ", I'd no problem with that. This is a fully manual lens, meaning that it does not have autofocus, and you must manually select the f-stop using the aperture ring at the base of the lens. fast, sharp wide open, excellent bokeh, value for money, very fast, sharp, gorgeous background blur, world class lens. The first telephoto lens of choice, especially recommended for beginners, is the 135mm F2.5 SMC Pentax. These lenses go about as close as you could get without a dedicated macro lens. I've been using a vintage FD 135/3.5 on my A7R IV as a compact tele option, often alongside a tiny Samyang 75/1.8. One very popular lens for bokeh fiends is the Canon 85mm F1.2it can produce extremely creamy out of focus backgrounds. This lens is available on Amazon for most camera bodies. Try to have eyes and nose / lips all in focus. And in their task to get that blurry background, they most often throw their main subject out of focus and/or to focus for anything else in the photograph that would make it, and end results are just "gear porn". I've recently started using 135 and 200mm lenses from the 1970s with my mono CCD and they've proven very useful for imaging large emission nebulae. Amazing for portraits, easily fast enough for indoor sports. And as this article clearly shows, no amount of blurr will make a poorly composed photo good. Now - THAT's a lens everyone should have ;). It can isolate subject while being tack sharp with beautiful creamy bokeh when used at f2. See the full-size version on Astrobin. #light_bulb I would disagree. They create a beautiful, mesmerizing dreamscape in their photos, and their secret weapon, besides an impeccable sense for aesthetics, is the 135mm F2 lens. (purchased for $725), reviewed March 26th, 2013 Rain or shine, it's hard to find a camera that does all the OM-5 can for the price. Most of these APOs have F ratios around 6.5, and are unable to comprehend in their field of view large celestial objects such as the Andromeda galaxy, the North America nebula, and comets. I have never had a bad experience buying used Canon lenses from eBay sellers with 99.5%+ positive feedback. Read on to find out which you should be using and why! But that 10Mpix is more than enough to make a very good A3-A2 size print, but your technique needs to be very good as even slight misfocus is even more visible and the rendering faults as well. IS is useful in my f/4 zooms but I don't need it to hand-hold this lens. Can I assume that this article applies only to full frame & not to micro four thirds? I do not like this. They were not however designed to be bokeh monsters though that was just a side effect of making them fast and people bought them for speed with bokeh being the afterthought so not Bokeh for the sake of Bokeh as he said. The Rho Ophiuchi Cloud Complex by Eric Cauble using the Samyang 135mm F/2 lens. Rokinon FE14M-C Lens. This includes everything from the rich star fields of Sagittarius, to a complete look at the Andromeda Galaxy. This is an amazing lens.Very sharp wide open and no improvement when stopped own. In this review, however, I am using the lens on a crop sensor (APS-C) Canon EOS 60Da, which puts the field of view at 12.4 degrees. I know this is a very old article but I was re reading as I mulled over this very point (85/1.4 vs 135/1.8) and I've gotta point out this math is all wrong First off 85->135 is a 1.6x crop and a 1.6x crop will yield 16MP on 42MP bodies (42 / (1.6x1.6) ), ~20MP on the A1, and ~24MP on the A7R IV. Adam007,"a headshot is exactly where I want to see all those megapixels"No thanks. Please ride off on the same horse you rode in on. But like a glitch in the matrix, an anomaly that shouldn't exist, you can get the Samyang/Rokinon 135mm for as little as $430 brand new. Will this ever get old? Another drawback is the focal length. Yet the Jaegers becomes essentially color free when stopped down to 3in. It's terrible. you can see here a lot of photos mostly shot with the f/4 version. I disagree. The Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 was the first lens I had ever used like this, and these aspects do not hinder the astrophotography experience whatsoever. That whole rig comes to about $1200, minus the mount. I bought this lens after reading your great review for my Nikon D5300. This article was originally published on Micael's blog, and is being republished in full with express permission. However, for $15 I also bought an old Tamron Adaptall 2, 135 mm f2.5. If you are a Nikon user, of course have a look at the Nikon AF Nikkor 135mm f/2D DC and compare it to the other lenses mentioned in this article. its useful to keep in mind these bokeh circles are the result of light sources bright lamps from autos Christmas lights streetlamps etc and are seriously overused in articles on lenses with strong subject\ backround seperations, they approach parody in the way they characterise subject separation, for most purposes and in most portrait situations its less highlight dominant backrounds that grace a photo. The only downside with that lens is that it is manual focus, which might not be suitable for photographing sports or children. I have a 135mm f2.8 lens I've used for wide DSOs but mostly I use 200mm. The image below highlights the creative freedom this lens provides. The Best Telephoto Lenses for Astrophotography. In fact, a light-weight 200/2.8 seems more interesting to own (e.g., the Minolta 200/2.8). I agree to some extent with many of the critics of the article and disagree with much of its content, but I also have respect for the the author's right to express those opinions. Great for portraits. The aperture range of this lens is F/2 to F/22, with 9 diaphragm blades (aperture blades) that work in harmony to set your f-stop. If the telescope mount is precisely aligned to the celestial north pole, unguided exposures of one to two minutes are possible. You can barely tell it's a pond.#3: Duck.Birds with bokeh are fine. If the title had been: "Testing My First Telephoto and LOVING IT!!!!!!!. "Bokeru" is a verb, and it can apply equally to to optical and psychological effects, including the reduced mental clarity that can some with age. We've combed through the options and selected our two favorite cameras in this class. Rokinon 135mm F2.0 ED UMC Telephoto Lens for Canon Digital SLR Cameras The Rokinon 135mm F/2 ED UMC. The Olympus Zuiko 180/2.8 and 100/2.8 impressed me in the 1980s, but in the digital era they are not so sharp. At f/32, it's pretty soft, but less so than a lot of lenses at that aperture. During the frigid months of winter, my motivation to spend over an hour setting up my complete deep-sky imaging rig dwindles. They are by nature designed to compromise by magnification and distance, and are therefore not optically optimized at any single setting. I have taken some of the coolest photos with this lens on a canon mark III which shoots ten frames per second. Can't argue with your reasoning, Juksu, about the framing of the article, but just stopping by to say I really liked that cat picture, am shopping for a new smartphone, struck that this type of photo is in another league - all newbie observations, of course, which sort of supports your thoughts that an article like this would be better framed as a "Love this new long lens stuff" sort of thing. The 135 is lighter, but that's its only advantage. But I would argue that a 135mm F2 lens produces even greater bokeh, thanks to the long focal length that compresses the background far more than the 85mm lens. I already did some trials with the Samyang 12mm lens. here are some links to some pics taken with the lens: Yeah I agree that the sentiment that they were designed to be used stopped down is wrong as they were designed to be used wide open because they had to be for speed (my point above). They just wanted to increase their joy from photography. No one yet mentioned a zoom lens, I had an opportunity to test my Canon 24-105L f/4 on M31 Andromeda Galaxy and received wonderful results with Canon 60D unmoded, I set it to 105mm, No vignatting, slight coma on the corners and no false color on bright stars. Smooth but contrasty. The lens hood is removable (and reversible), which makes packing the Rokinon 135mm away into the included lens pouch possible. Part of it might be that they were designed for film photography and modern digital sensor are far more demanding in terms of optical quality. Super sharp from f2. Large emission nebulae like the California Nebula (pictured below) are a great choice for this focal length. Available Monday. Does this work well with any of the 1.4x / 1.7x / 2.0x Teleconverters (extenders / barlows)? Sure, not all 135mm lenses are lightweightSigma's new 135mm F1.8 is rather heavy at 1130gbut if you look at the Samyang 135mm F2, which is pretty much flawless optically, it weighs only 830g. One difference worth pointing out is for those who image using narrowband filters. Large focus ring. In fact, it might be fun to try! Another example is the 100mm (or sometimes 90mm) F2.8 macro lens. While they provide a very large flat field we noticed some CA. This lens is available for several camera mounts, including Nikon, Sony, Pentax, Samsung, and Fuji. It's gross, all is a matter of balance and the perfect one, given you want sharp and fuzzy elements in your picture, is in the blend, and the way details seems to disappear gracefully (while keeping a level of readability). The extent of this influence lies mainly in photographer's perception and creativity.As all arts photography may serve given needs due to numerous reasons with the resulting integrity of the work not necessarily suggesting art.The photographic gear (from lens cleaning tissues up to s/w) is just the tool(s) of a photographer in order to produce its work. Target for bortle 9 astrophotography? The Rokinon 135mm F/2 was Built for Astrophotography When stopped down to 49mm it really is indistinguishable from an APO, except it shows red chromatic aberration with modified cameras even with the UV/IR block or CLS-CCD filter. At the other end of the aperture range though, the 5D's larger pixels actually help matters, as the softening starts later (it's very sharp even at f/16), and is noticeably lower at f/32. A Bargain, very competively priced The aperture ring is marked with each f-stop, and you need to manually click through F/2 F/22 and watch the blades do their work. Also type the lens you are interested in into the search window on Astrobin to see examples shot with that lens. There are a total of 8 stops actually written on the lens. It actually makes my eyes water as I try to resolve how bad the blurriness is. This lens provides all of these requirements. No rubber sealing against the camera body tend to give me the creeps when shooting in the wet. In the past, Ive covered a number of different lenses, from the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 to the Canon EF 300mm F/4L. (purchased for $650), reviewed June 6th, 2008 Stuff I used to take the photos in this video:- The Canon 135mm f2 lens: https://amzn.to/346Paz7- Sony A7III Camera: https://amzn.to/2xM776q- Sony Grip exten. My Nikon focus and aperture rings are a thing of highly finessed engineering beauty! p.s. As you'd expect from a premium prime lens, both maximum and average chromatic aberration is very low across the aperture range, with the maximum CA on the order of 0.02% of frame height regardless of aperture. The best 200mm lens is precisely the older 200mm F4 SMC Takumar, which comes with the M42 camera thread, and requires the M42-EOS adapter. I really wanted to use, and like, a 135mm f2 lens so I bought the Canon version. 645 lenses such as the mamiya apo line and pentax edif can operate within these conditions without vignetting on apsc sensors. The combination of a wide aperture and very little light lost in transmission makes very high shutter speeds possible.
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